Traveling Truly

If you’re unfamiliar with the Balkans, it’s hard to understand the treasure that lies inside them. However, if you’ve spent any time traveling around this peninsula, you know that gorgeous mountains, rich history, friendly people, incredibly affordable experiences, amazing food, and entertaining moments are in no short supply. My home for a couple of years after college, and one of the dearest places on this planet to me, is a destination that I believe you should not miss during your tour of the Balkans. Here is a comprehensive list of how to visit Peja, Kosovo.

(P.S. all the links simply go to listings on Google Maps. I am not affiliated with any of these places – I just love them! Save this post for reference on your trip!)

Slow down and sip coffee.

All of Kosovo is absolutely littered with coffee shops. They are everywhere. Peja has some very lovely coffee shops as well that provide great opportunities for rest and decompression, friendship-building, people-watching, and of course, delicious coffee. There are some who boast a beautiful outdoor area, some a cozy retreat from winter, some an absolute ✨vibe✨, and some the greatest advantage for people-watching.

Patronizing coffee shops is a way of life in Kosovo, and very different than in America. And if you’re thinking, “yeah, yeah, we know Europe is different with their coffee culture”, you need to understand that Kosovo and some other Balkan countries are on another level with their coffee shop culture. On my most recent visit, a friend and I met up for coffee. She had already been to two cafes just before meeting up with me, and then the two of us hit another, then a restaurant, and then two more cafes! Whether you are traveling solo or with friends, you cannot miss the experience of slowing down and sipping macchiatos while in Peja.

Visit the Accursed Mountains

Kosovo is bordered by the Albanian Alps, also known as the Accursed Mountains. One of the most well-known regions within the Accursed Mountains is Rugova, to which Peja is the gateway. This reason alone is sufficient to visit Peja. Rugova Canyon is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. It is grand in every season, although fall may be my favorite ( I come from Florida where fall simply does not exist). Go on a hike, stay in one of the hotels nestled in the peaks, go skiing, rock climbing, or ziplining. You could also just rent a car and take a drive up to one of the restaurants along the way for a coffee or a fresh trout lunch.

My favorite places in Rugova:

Te Sharra

A coffee shop/swimming area right at the entrance to Rugova. Te Sharra is easily accessible by taxi if you don’t have a car and is only about a five minute drive outside of town. There is a coffee shop/restaurant, a swimming area (be warned- it’s very cold) and walking path. This is a great place to go to get out of the city and into the beautiful mountains without a big commitment.

Restaurant Hani

This restaurant is about 30 minutes of driving into the mountains. It has an incredible view and delicious food. Their speca me maze (peppers in cream sauce) is my favorite in Kosovo. You can sit outside on the extensive patio in nice weather or cozy up inside during the winter while still being able to enjoy the views from your table. I drove to this restaurant one time just to sit and drink hot chocolate and take in the mountains and relieve the stress of my day. One of my favorite places without question.

Guri i Kuq

“Red Rock” in English, this area is great for getting away high up into the mountains. You can start a hike from here or just hang out among the views in one of the restaurants. There are also cabins you can stay in, although I never have. Guri i Kuq is about 45 minutes to an hour from town. When I took a taxi, it cost 20 euros each way. That may have risen by now likely not by much.

Bogë

This is where you go for snow sports in the winter! It’s about the same distance as Guri i Kuq. There are restaurants and cabins to stay in here as well, although I have only been during the day.

Wherever you go in Rugova, you can’t go wrong!

Visit the Old Bazaar

“Çarshia i Vjetër” in Albanian, this is the area will you will shop for souvenirs, jewelry, traditional clothing, traditional cheeses, fresh local produce, and all sorts of miscellaneous items. I like walking through the bazaar whenever I can during summer because it just always feels very alive.

Visit Shtëpia Alpike Ranch

One of the best views of the city can be found from this restaurant/adventure park sitting on the side of the mountain. Take a taxi (I don’t recommend driving it unless you are familiar with the road) for a few euros and visit this park. There is a small rope course, a giant swing, and even some horses you can ride all for a very affordable price. The restaurant overlooking the city is one of the best in town. I suggest ordering the Tave Ranch. It’s basically a rich stew inside a soft basket of bread. It’s a traditional food and so delicious. Bonus: this place offers one of the best photo ops in Peja!

Visit the Pec Monastery

Peja is home to the patriarch church of Serbian Eastern Orthodoxy. It was established in the 13th century, and is still actively used. It is a wonderful and easy way to sneak some history into your visit. The church is free to enter, the grounds are kept beautifully, and it offers a fantastic view of the Rugova mountains. Notes: bring your passport to enter and please be respectful of the areas that are not open to visitors.

Trofta e Drinit

One of my favorite places to bring visitors while I lived in Peja was always Trofta e Drinit, a restaurant situated along the Drini River which flows out of the mountains. The food there is delicious, and they are known for their trout (trofta), which come directly from the river. After parking at the restaurant, walk up the road about ten minutes toward the mountains. This will bring you to the Drini Waterfalls. The best time to visit this area is in May and June, while the snow melt is supplying a huge amount of water to the falls. However, the area is always beautiful. There is also a cave which costs a couple of euros to enter and take a tour. After working up an appetite exploring the falls, head back up the road and eat dinner on the large patio to watch the sunset over the peaceful view.

Trofta e Drinit is not technically in the city of Peja. It is about a 20 minute drive out of the city, which will allow you to take in the beautiful Kosovar countryside on your way!

Use Peja as a base to visit Kosovo

Many travelers think that they should be based in the capital of a country and take day trips from there. However, Kosovo is very small and in my opinion, Peja is a great place to base yourself. Things will be slightly cheaper here than in the capital, and is in my opinion much more pleasant to be in than Prishtina. Prishtina is more central, but everything is still accessible from Peja. Take day trips to Prishtina, Prizren, and Gjakova to hit the highlights that Kosovo has to offer.

When traveling Europe, trips can become very overwhelming as you can be moving so quickly that you do not have time to sit and soak in the place in which you find yourself. Take advantage of your visit to Peja and use it as an opportunity to connect with locals and slow down to take in the beauty and charm of this unknown destination.

Have you ever been to Peja? Let me know your favorite places or which ones you would love to visit!